Spring Skiing on Mt Daniel

This spring in the PNW has been a sneakily good season. A warm winter with too much rain and not enough snow had my expectations set low for spring, but I ended up getting out on a few lovely tours. In mid-May, a cold front swept in and deposited a refresh of snow in the mountains, resetting the corn cycle in the process. By the time Memorial Day weekend arrived, most of the best snow was on the slopes of volcanos and other high elevation areas, and I set my sights on Mt Daniel as a spring ski objective for the long weekend.

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Sonja Saxe
Shuksan Attempt via the Sulphide Glacier

Mt. Shuksan is a mountain that I long considered so far outside of my skillset and comfort zone that I would never climb it. While the slopes on Shuksan’s south side are lower angle and more approachable, the final ~800’ summit pyramid is steep—a sustained 40 to 50 degrees, and even steeper on the final 20’-30’. But, after successfully climbing Garibaldi and expanding my comfort zone skiing steeper slopes, Shuksan suddenly felt more like a possibility. Because I thought I’d never be able to climb the mountain, I avoided even stepping foot on it. I figured why climb 90% of a mountain if I don’t have the skills to make it up the last 10%? This season, I finally felt ready to at least step foot on the mountain, set eyes on the summit pyramid, and assess the terrain for myself.

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The Spearhead Traverse in a Day

The Spearhead Traverse is a route I learned about shortly after getting into backcountry skiing in 2018. It is regarded as one of the most scenic traverses in Canada and has been called the “Haute Route” of North America. The route connects Blackcomb to Whistler by way of a meandering traverse that crosses 11 glaciers, winds around 17 peaks, and travels through some of the most spectacular alpine terrain. It’s about 21 miles, give or take the exact variation one chooses (and there is no shortage of variations from which to choose), and about 5,600’ of gain if you exit via the standard Singing Pass route. Oh, and it also requires at least 21 transitions. It’s no small undertaking physically or technically, so I kept this route in the back of my mind as I accumulated more experience in glacier travel, reading terrain, navigating, and improving my endurance these past few years.

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Garibaldi Redemption

In early April, Sander and I climbed and skied off the summit of Mt. Garibaldi in beautiful British Columbia. It is a peak that Alex and I attempted to ski last season via Brohm Ridge, but we were turned back on that trip by incoming weather about 1,200’ below the summit (blog post here). In my trip report, I wrote that I wasn’t sure I would ever go back to attempt Garibaldi again, and if I did, I certainly would not take the Brohm Ridge approach. Well, less than a year later I did go back, but I was true to my word and did not access it via Brohm Ridge. Instead, Sander and I took the longer but, in my opinion much better, approach via Garibaldi Lake and the Rubble Creek Trailhead.

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Chasing Winter on the Chilean Volcanoes

At the end of August, Alex and I headed to South America to chase winter in the depths of the US summer and had a blast skiing a couple Chile volcanoes in spring-like conditions. However, this was not our Plan A. (I really need to start keeping track of how often my Plan As fall through because I feel like I write this sentence nearly every other post!) Our Plan A was a hut-to-hut backcountry ski trip outside of Bariloche, specifically this trip from Powder Quest: https://powderquest.com/trips/patagonia-hut-to-hut/. We booked the trip at the end of 2024 and kept our fingers crossed for good conditions. Unfortunately, the region experienced its worst snowpack since 1996.

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A Redemption Summit in the North Cascades

In 2021, Alex and I set out to climb Snowking Mountain, a regal peak nestled in the depths of the North Cascades during an intense heat wave. We underestimated the amount of water sources along the route and ended up dangerously dehydrated on the most exposed section of the approach. By pure luck, we stumbled upon a tiny snow patch melting in the heat and were able to filter a couple liters of water that saved us. By the time we made it to camp at Cyclone Lake, we were exhausted, dehydrated, and mentally fried from the entire experience. Instead of attempting the summit the next morning, we packed up camp and headed back to the trailhead, tail between our legs. Once safely home, we wrote this one off for good.

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The Elusive Snowfield Peak

Over the Fourth of July weekend, my friend Kara and I climbed Snowfield Peak, a mountain that we have been wanting to climb since 2023. Each year, some weather-related event prevented us from even stepping foot on the trail. In 2023, just two days before our planned trip, the Pyramid Area wildfire sparked and the entire area was closed. We decided to find a different objective since we already had the time set aside and climbed Chiwawa Mountain in the Glacier Peak Wilderness instead. In 2024, the weekend we scheduled our Snowfield climb coincided with an oppressive heat wave that swept into the region and, not wanting to haul our overnight gear and glacier gear up in the heat, we pivoted to doing Sloan car to car instead. This year, we decided to plan the trip at the beginning of the season to try to avoid the wildfires and heat waves that can afflict the North Cascades later in the season. The strategy paid off. Finally we got our Snowfield summit!

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The Season Finale: Mt. Shasta via the Hotlum/Wintun Route

For the finale of our spring ski season, Alex and I had hoped to do something big, something that would be the culmination of six months’ worth of long days in the mountains and training, something that we couldn’t have done in January, before we logged all of the miles and vert on skis. Initially, we had our mind set on Rainier via the Emmons, but early June reports on the state of the upper Emmons steered us away. It seemed route-finding around crevasses and over snow bridges was extra tricky this year. But then we thought, what about a different 14,000’ Cascade volcano? What about Mt. Shasta? The ten hour drive intimidated us, as did the 7,200’ ascent and the 14,180’ high point, but the forecast for the weekend of June 6-8 looked ideal and recent trip reports were promising enough that we decided to make the long haul to California. 

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Sonja Saxe
A Paradise Classic: The Nisqually Chute

We try to plan a ski trip for every Memorial Day weekend since a long weekend at the end of May lends itself well to big spring ski tours. This year was no exception. We initially set the weekend aside as a potential Rainier summit attempt via the Emmons, but on Thursday the Rainier climbing rangers posted a blog post detailing how sketchy the route currently is. Recent snow created shallow snow bridges over big crevasses, and there were reports of highly capable parties taking their skis off and belaying each other down the most precarious sections. This did not sound like something we wanted to do, so we looked for other options. After quite a bit of waffling, we decided to keep it chill for the weekend and go on a couple of half day ski tours in Mt. Rainier National Park.

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